The weather was so bad this morning that we considered staying on for another night, but then the rain stopped, and we started off at around 10 o'clock, later than usual. Crookshaven is situated at a kind of dead end of the road, so we had to go back the same way we had come to Goleen, about 8 kms. From there we chose a parallel road to the main road to Schull which was rather a mistake. The gradients were much steeper, there was more traffic than on the main road, and to make everything worse, it started to rain in earnest. We reached Schull eventually, after a lot of up-and-down riding, a small town clogged with traffic and tourists. We had a quick sandwich and went on to Ballydehob which was much the same kind of town as Schull, but much quieter with a lovely old railway bridge. From Ballydehob we took the main road to Skibbereen which was not too bad. The last piece of road went along the Ilen river, a very nice stretch of road. Arrived in Skibbereen, a somewhat larger town than Schull and Ballydehob, we took the usual look around to find a B&B place. There were so many of them, though, that it was difficult to choose. We ended up at a place on Bridge Street which advertised itself as Victorian lodgings where somebody has run wild with pink frills and ornaments in every available space, and the bathroom, in slightly decadent black marble, is splendidly decorated too, featuring an enormous triangular bath, hanging plants etc.