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A Trip to Scotland and the Western
Isles July 2000 
dansk
Kisimul Castle, Castlebay, Barra, Scotland
© Ole Jacobi July 2000
The way back from Vatersay to Castlebay is a hard struggle against
the wind, until we reach the highest point just before Nask where there's
a monument to the victims of war, and the road goes downhill the rest of
the way. Back in Castlebay, we visit the Heritage Centre with items from
the island’s naval history with many accounts of heroic deeds in the two
world wars, and also some highly entertaining accounts of the history of
the islands by school children on assignment at the museum. They serve
a nice home-made lunch at the museum café. The weather is still
very bright though windy, so we stroll around Castlebay, taking time to
paint a picture of Kismul Castle in the bay, home of the MacNeils.
The castle dates back to the 15th C. and was burnt in 1795. It then stood
empty for a long period, until it was restored some 30 years ago by an
American architect, Robert L. MacNeil who was the 45th Chief in line of
the MacNeil Clan.
Castlebay presents a very peaceful aspect this afternoon, with children
in evidence everywhere, cycling around on roads which are fairly safe from
traffic.
Dinner at Castlebay Hotel where they serve some very good fish courses.
Friday 7 July 2000
Today we have until 4 o’clock to get to where the small pedestrian ferry
sails from the north of Barra to South Uist. The weather is not very good,
a fine wet mist is hanging around most of the time, but fortunately,
the wind has shifted, so that we have a side-back wind most of the time.
The main road in Barra turns in a circle around the island, and we opt
for the western route to the ferry which brings us past Borve where according
to legend a Viking galley once landed. The story goes that one of the Vikings
challenged a local man to a fight to the death in which the Viking
was killed. A stone was erected at the spot which can still be seen, though
it's hard to find and not very imposing, standing as it is in a large green
field with sheep droppings everywhere. Further on we come to Seal Bay,
where, alas, no seals are to be seen. We don’t see much of
the island’s other archeological remains, either they are too far from
the road, or not to be seen from the description in the small tourist guide,
we still have from last time we were here, almost 20 years ago. In North
Bay where we leave the circular main road, we have lunch at an old inn
which is an original ferry inn established 140 years ago with a corresponding
ferry inn on South Uist. On the last stretch, we pass the airport where
small planes land on the beach at low tide.
As we take a break close to the jetty where the ferry leaves, supposedly
in very good time, we suddenly see the ferry on its way in, and passengers
with bicycles assembling on the jetty. We get a move on quickly, and get
to the boat shortly before it leaves at 2:30. The time we have been given
at the Tourist Office in Castlebay, 15:55, is for tomorrow (the time differs
from day to day dependent on the tides), so we count ourselves lucky to
have got there in good time. The passage to Ludag in South Uist is short,
but quite rough, but no one is seasick. After leaving the ferry, it’s on
with the rain-wear, and looking for the first available accomodation. The
first place we apply, a very nice inn at Pollachar is full up, but a B&B
is found a short distance from there. Dinner at the nearby inn.
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text and watercolour by Susanne and Ole Jacobi